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Dermaplaning is the Devils work- avoid at all costs

I had a message from a friend tonight who is really upset about her skin- we don’t live near each other and I’ve never given her any facials or specific advice before but I am so glad she has reached out cause I know I can help and explain why this is happening!

She’s 53(same as me) and is into menopause
(or should I say post menopause? I once heard someone say we are actually only menopausal for ONE DAY- that being the 365th day following our last period- I digress….)

Anyway she had dermaplaning in December and it’s been ‘horrific since then’ …’huge painful spots’ ‘scarring’ and ‘the hairiest face ever!’ ????‍♀️

I haven’t done a consultation yet but I already know what’s happening..

1. Dermaplaning is the Devils work- avoid at all costs- it’s carried out by those who have little understanding of skin science or appreciation for the barrier function. This was a huge mistake- once your barrier is impaired – in this case- severely damaged by a scalpel ????‍♀️, the loss of your skins natural Microbiome, acid mantle and Natural Moisturising Factor- your skin cannot protect itself from invading pathogens or prevent trans epidermal water loss!
Menopausal Acne is a horrible thing and will only be worsened ten fold by such an aggressive treatment.

Menopausal acne presents as white heads & sore, inflamed painful lumps under the skin that can develop into cysts. They’re usually around the mouth, jawline, chin and sometimes between the brows but can also be on the back and chest. Androgenic Alopecia ( male pattern hair loss)may also be an issue.

Why do we get menopausal acne?

1. When we’re younger our hormone levels change with our cycle, spots are just monthly- as we reach peri and our oestrogen levels get progressively lower and lower and lower; it’s no longer cyclical- it’s all the flippin time!

2. Your HRT may contain Progestin – this will exacerbate acne.

3. When we initially go into peri menopause our hormones start to fluctuate with a lowering of progesterone = lack of sleep +heightened anxiety & relatively higher Oestrogen = increased histamine thus sensitivity.

4. As peri menopause continues testosterone gets relatively higher as oestrogen levels deplete = a slower skin cell turnover, enlarged sebaceous glands/ increase in sebum production/ inflammation/ hyper keratinisation/ cystic acne.
As Oestrogen levels deplete so does production of Hyaluronic Acid and collagen = enlarged pores, impaired healing/ easy scarring./ thinner/ even more sensitive/ reactive/ dry.

5. As we go into our 50’s, life changes significantly – we have older parents who may need more attention and we may also have thoughtless & inconsiderate Millennials & Gen Z still at home ????or even grandchildren to care for, whilst also trying to hold down full time jobs and run households!
We’re anxious, beyond stressed AND having night sweats which means our sleep quality is zero! Our body needs sleep to repair itself and without it our immune system suffers!????
When stress levels rise we produce excess cortisol which actually activates / exacerbates sebaceous gland activity! (Like we need anymore!)

6. We get sugar cravings which can lead to high sugar levels and insulin resistance which sadly also leads to collagen glycation! (put this in my search bar for a post on this).
Plus, unfortunately insulin will convert oestrogen to testosterone in the ovaries & increase ‘free testosterone’ (the small percentage of your testosterone that is not bound to any protein) resulting in more breakouts!

What can we do?

Self care! Get some ‘me time’ ; meditate, exercise, eat well and focus on *gut health & good nutrition – eat the rainbow and get lots of omega 3’s! get off social media, switch off the TV & get more sleep! Yep I know myself it’s easier said than done!????‍♀️

*The estrobolome is a community of bacteria in the gut responsible for excreting metabolising oestrogen- if the necessary 60 species of bacterium and fungi aren’t present to make up this very important band of vigilantes, these hormones become toxic waste in your body that just goes round & round wreaking havoc in the form of inflammation particularly as regards skin health. Mood regulation, cognitive function, and even heart disease & cancer are also affected. Pre & probiotics are essential!

Professional advice on skin care to get the perfect regime & treatment plan.
Focussing on:
Gentle/ effective cleansing
Antioxidants to fight free radical damage including retinoids to increase cellular turnover, clear follicular buildup and thicken/ strengthen the epidermis.
Moisturising & restoring barrier function.
Sun protection

Dermalux or Celluma LED light therapy.

Cold Atmospheric Plasma (CAP) is a newly developed technology for the beauty industry and it’s INCREDIBLE for treating all inflammatory skin conditions especially acne.

Ekseption’s Pure Skin peel. 3 treatments taken over three weeks. Combined with CAP & LED????????

Keep hydrated! Hydration levels affect your hormones! Water with high levels of electrolytes and antioxidant, anti inflammatory, adaptogenic teas are just perfect!

Don’t squeeze- you’ll scar!

Red Reishi
Liquorice
Flaxseed
Maca
are just a few natural adaptogens that may well be helpful! Do your homework & only as the very last resort (because I am very anti medication) – ask your Doctor about Spironolactone- a tablet for high blood pressure that also blocks androgen receptors thus preventing acne and hair loss as well as excessive facial hair. It doesn’t give instant results so don’t expect miracles but it is something that the Dr may consider for you.

Not only can skin become acneic but on the flip side it can be lipid dry and dehydrated; the feeling of ‘crawling ants’ all over your body is a common analogy! Scratching obviously must be avoided to prevent impairing the barrier function and subsequent infections so….

Ekseption’s Vit B5 applied topically penetrates the epidermis to hydrate the stratum corneum and fight the water loss.
Panthenol decreases pro-inflammatory cytokines and immediately reduces itching and inflammation (pro-inflammatory cytokines cause redness). It reduces itching by up to 58% in 5 min.

Hypo21 – pure hypochlorous acid is something everyone should carry in their handbag- it’s a perfect replica of what our white blood cells make as part of our immune system. Anti bacterial, anti fungal , anti viral- a quick spritz will relieve itching and kick in healing pronto!

And….

Essential oils are a girls best friend – especially during peri/ menopause!

Clary Sage is effective in helping with the intensity of hot flushes, Geranium is great for anxiety & depression & Rose helps with stress, stimulates sex drive & relieves menstrual cramps. The Eve Taylor ‘Hug in a Bottle’ diffuser & body gel blend is the perfect comforter and #5 & #6 Aromatic Serums have been blended especially for the changes of menopausal skin. Stress Relief massage & Bath blends are gorgeous & The Soothing & Ultra Soothing Skin range; calming & desensitising. The Ultra Soothing cleanser can also be used as a flash mask on irritated, itchy, sensitised skin anywhere on the body and our rich body butter is perfect for lipid depleted thirsty skin!

Hope that helps!
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